How to Read a Sewing Pattern
Sewing patterns contain a lot of information packed into a small envelope and a tissue sheet. This guide walks you through every part of a pattern — from the envelope to the cutting layout — so you can start sewing with confidence.
Understanding the Pattern Envelope
The front of the envelope shows sketches or photos of the finished garments, the pattern number, brand name, and the included size range. Multiple views (A, B, C) indicate variations of the same design.
The back of the envelope is where most of the practical information lives:
- Finished garment measurements — the actual size of the sewn garment, including ease. Compare to your body measurements plus the ease you prefer.
- Fabric requirements — yardage needed for each size and each fabric width (45″ vs 60″).
- Fabric suggestions — recommended fabrics for the design (e.g. "Woven: lawn, voile, cotton broadcloth").
- Notions — zippers, buttons, interfacing, elastic, and other supplies you will need.
- Body measurement chart — the size chart for choosing your size.
Pattern Pieces and Markings
Each pattern piece is printed with symbols that tell you how to cut and sew it. Learning these markings is essential:
Grain Line
A double-headed arrow (↕) that must be placed parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Cutting off-grain causes the finished garment to twist or hang unevenly.
Fold Line
A bracket symbol (⌐ or ¬) or the text "Place on fold" means that edge is placed on a folded layer of fabric; the cut piece will be symmetrical.
Cutting Line
The solid outer line of the pattern piece. Cut along this line (unless using Burda patterns, which print only the stitching line — you must add seam allowances before cutting).
Stitching Line
The dashed inner line, inset from the cutting line by the seam allowance (usually ⅝″ for US patterns). You sew along this line.
Notches
Small triangles on the cutting edge. They are used to match seams: single notch to single notch, double notch to double notch. Cut outward around them or make a small snip inward.
Darts
V-shaped lines with a dot at the point. Darts are folded and stitched to create shape in areas like the bust and waist.
Dots and Squares
Mark important construction points — pocket placement, zipper stops, or points where seams intersect.
Cutting Layout
The pattern instruction sheet includes cutting layout diagrams — a bird's-eye view of how to arrange pattern pieces on folded or unfolded fabric. Follow the layout for your fabric width and your size.
- Pieces shown shaded are placed right-side up; unshaded pieces are placed wrong-side up (or flipped).
- Fold the fabric right sides together unless instructed otherwise.
- The selvage is the finished edge that runs the length of the fabric bolt. Keep grain lines parallel to the selvage.
- Do not cut pieces on the bias (diagonal) unless the pattern specifically calls for it.
Transferring Markings to Fabric
After cutting, transfer all pattern markings to the fabric before removing the tissue. Common methods:
- Tailor's chalk — mark directly on the wrong side of fabric. Brushes off when dry.
- Tracing wheel and carbon paper — place carbon paper between fabric layers, run the wheel over pattern lines.
- Pins — push a pin through the dot on the pattern and mark the pinhole with chalk.
- Thread tracing — hand-baste along important lines; removes easily and leaves no residue.
Size Selection
Always choose your pattern size from the size chart — not from your clothing tag. Sewing pattern sizes are based on body measurements, not retail vanity sizing.
- For tops, blouses, and dresses: choose by bust measurement.
- For trousers and skirts: choose by hip measurement (unless your waist is proportionally larger).
- If your measurements fall in different sizes, cut the larger size and take in the seams where needed — or learn to grade between sizes.